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Good morning homeowners!

In this weeks newsletter:

• A new Know Before You Hire series - Roofers

• March Maintenance

Luxury Home Features

Looking for amazing ideas to add to your current or next home. Check out my curated list of luxury home features here: https://adampaulrich.com/

What to Ask Before Hiring a Roofing Contractor

The Questions That Separate Good Outcomes from Expensive Regrets

If you missed it, I previously featured a checklist for hiring contractors. Check it Out Here. Each trade (plumbers, roofers, carpenters, etc.) come with special considerations.

A bad roof is a structural problem that won't reveal itself until water is already inside your walls and home. The stakes are higher, and the questions you need to ask are almost entirely specific to roofing.

Who is actually doing the work?

Ask whether the crew is W-2 employees or subcontractors. Roofing is one of the most subcontractor-heavy trades in home improvement. Many companies sell the job and hand it to a traveling crew with no accountability to the company's standards.

Be especially cautious of out-of-state contractors who appear after a storm. Storm-chasing crews are a well-documented problem in roofing — they offer low prices, do rushed work, and are unreachable when problems surface six months later.

Are they manufacturer-certified?

Major shingle manufacturers like GAF and Owens Corning offer certified contractor programs (GAF Master Elite, Owens Corning Platinum Preferred). Certification requires training, licensing verification, and insurance minimums — and it unlocks extended manufacturer warranties unavailable through non-certified installers. Ask specifically which warranty the installation qualifies for. Review the certificates for each installer each day of installation.

What happens when they pull up the old shingles?

A reputable roofer will inspect the decking (the plywood or OSB beneath the shingles) and replace any rotted or damaged sections. Ask how they handle this and what they charge per sheet. Contractors who don't mention decking inspection at all are skipping a critical step.

What components are included — and what isn't?

Drip edge, ice-and-water shield, and proper attic ventilation are code-required in most jurisdictions but are commonly omitted by lower-bid contractors. Ask line by line what's included. Flashing around chimneys, skylights, and roof penetrations should be replaced, not re-used. Re-used flashing is a leading cause of leaks on otherwise new roofs.

What does cleanup include?

Ask specifically whether they perform a magnetic sweep of the yard and driveway for nails. A single nail in a tire is a foreseeable outcome of a roof replacement — a good contractor prevents it.

Will they pull a permit?

Many roofing jobs require a permit. A contractor who skips it is creating a problem for you at resale and may be voiding your manufacturer warranty in the process. If they suggest skipping it, treat that as a red flag.

Most homeowners don't know enough about roofing to ask the right questions, which is exactly what a cost-cutting contractor is counting on. Here's what to press on — specifically.

Drip Edge vs. Gutter Apron

Basic drip edge is the minimum and does a minimum job. A gutter apron (also called gutter flashing) extends several inches further under the roofing underlayment and bends down into the gutter, providing real protection against water wicking back under the edge. Ask specifically: "Are you installing a gutter apron or standard drip edge?" Expect most contractors to have never been asked.

Ice and Water Shield — How Much, and Where

Code minimums exist, and many contractors stop there. In cold climates, ice and water shield should extend at least 24 inches past the interior wall line at every eave — not just to the edge of the roof. It should also run the full length of every valley. Ask: "How far up the eaves are you running the ice barrier, and are you doing full coverage in the valleys?" Also ask if they're applying it around every penetration — pipe boots, skylights, and curbs. Any roofing around and below dormers should receive ice guard, as this a common area for ice damming.

Exhaust Vents: Where Are They Actually Exhausting?

A roofer pulling off your old shingles and sheathing has a rare opportunity to identify a common and costly problem: bathroom fans, kitchen exhaust, and dryer vents that terminate in the attic instead of through the roof. This causes moisture buildup, mold, and premature decking failure. Ask them to identify and report on every exhaust penetration while the roof is open.

Underlayment Quality

Felt paper (15 lb or 30 lb) is the old standard. Synthetic underlayment is dramatically more resistant to moisture, tearing, and UV exposure during installation. Ask which they're using and why. Synthetic should be the default on any quality job.

Pipe Boots

Rubber pipe boots are one of the leading causes of post-installation leaks, and they degrade faster than the shingles around them. Ask whether they're replacing all pipe boots and what material they use. High-quality EPDM or lead-free lifetime boots are the right answer — not reused rubber that's already 15 years old.

Valley Treatment

There are three ways to handle a roof valley: woven, closed-cut, and open metal. Open metal valleys — where a continuous piece of flashing runs the full length of the valley — are generally the most durable and easiest to maintain. Many contractors default to closed-cut because it's faster. Ask which method they're using and why.

Nail Placement

Shingles have a defined nailing zone. Nails placed too high — called "high nailing" — reduce wind resistance, can void the manufacturer warranty, and won't be visible once the roof is done. Ask how they ensure nail placement stays within spec, and whether they use nail guns with pressure settings calibrated for the shingle thickness. Overdriven nails are just as problematic as high ones.

Ridge Ventilation — Intake and Exhaust Balance

Many contractors add a ridge vent and call the ventilation handled. But a ridge vent is only effective if there's adequate intake at the soffits to create airflow. Ask them to assess whether your soffit intake is sufficient before they install ridge ventilation. An imbalanced system can actually pull conditioned air from the living space instead of venting attic heat. Ask them to show you the calculations they used.

Chimney and Dormer Flashing

Step flashing at any wall intersection should be individual pieces of metal interwoven with each shingle course — not a single continuous piece bent over the edge. At chimneys wider than 30 inches, a properly built saddle (or "cricket") should be framed on the uphill side to divert water around the chimney. You want this cricket to divert water to the gutters, not onto the side of the chimney - specifically ask for this. Ask directly whether they'll be building a cricket if applicable.

Fascia Inspection Before Drip Edge Installation

Drip edge nailed to rotted fascia is a problem that won't show itself until the fascia gives way. Ask them to flag any soft or deteriorating fascia before the new edge is installed, and clarify in advance who handles the repair and at what cost.

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Home Products I’m Enjoying

March Maintenance Reminders

See the links for ideas and instructions!

1. Check, Change or Clean Your Furnace Filter

2. Test Smoke, Fire and Carbon Monoxide Detectors.

3. Run garbage disposal.

4. Clean out and Tune Up Gutters and downspouts.

5. Flush out underground downspout drainage piping. Make sure they don’t do this.

6. Clear leaves and sticks from the yard.

About the Author

I’m Adam Rich, a licensed Professional Engineer (P.E.) and Real Estate Salesperson in the state of Ohio. I help discerning homeowners like you take control of the complexity behind your home.

With a background in engineering, property management, construction, and real estate investing, I specialize in helping understand the systems that make your home work.

Ready for Expert, Unbiased Advice?

Whether it’s a one-time consultation or an ongoing relationship, I offer homeowners peace of mind through clear insights, practical planning, and calm expertise.

I am available to consult on home maintenance and improvements, new construction decisions and options, real estate investing or purchases, real estate engineering matters, and other home systems matters. Whether you're planning major renovations, systems upgrades, assessing long-term maintenance, or just want to get a handle on your home’s true condition, I deliver expert-level answers in clear, practical language.

The content of this newsletter is for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. Always perform your own due diligence before making any financial decisions.