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In Today’s Newsletter

• How to pick your next roof shingle

• It’s summer - check out my favorite dehumidifier

• June Maintenance Reminders

Stay Tuned for the next newsletter: The Hard Truth About Current AC Replacement Costs.

How to Select a Shingle — 3-Tab, Architectural, or Premium?

The Know Before You Hire Series

In the last newsletter I introduced the truth about shingle warranties. Now you know who the shingle manufacturers are, and how to navigate their warranty offerings.

Now we get to the most important part. Which shingle are you going to put on your roof?

We’ll cover:

• The three shingle tiers (3-tab, architectural, premium architectural) and what actually differs between them

• When the cheaper shingle is the right call — and when it isn't

• A practical decision framework for picking your product

You've picked your manufacturer. You understand the warranty. Now you're standing in front of a sample board with products from the same brand at three price points, and the salesperson is asking which one you want.

This is where most homeowners freeze, default to "whatever you recommend," and spend either $4,000 too much or $4,000 too little.

The Three Tiers, Demystified

Every major manufacturer organizes their lineup into the same three tiers. The marketing names change but the structure doesn't.

3-Tab (entry-level)
A single-layer shingle with three cutouts that create the flat, repeating pattern you see on older roofs and most rental properties. Light weight (~200 lbs/square), 60 mph wind rating, 20–25 year prorated warranty.

Architectural (a.k.a. dimensional or laminate)
Two layers laminated together to create depth and shadow lines. This is the workhorse of American roofing — roughly 80% of new residential roofs use this tier. Heavier (~240–260 lbs/square), 110–130 mph wind rating, "Lifetime" warranty (though see the last newsletter HERE on what "Lifetime" actually means).

Premium Architectural (designer/luxury)
Thicker laminates, deeper shadow lines, often mimicking slate or wood shake style roofs. Higher granule quality, enhanced algae resistance, and impact ratings available. ~320–480 lbs/square, 130–150 mph wind rating, and the products that unlock the top warranty tiers we covered last week.

What You're Actually Paying For

Price climbs because of specific, measurable upgrades. The ones worth understanding:

Weight per square. More asphalt and more fiberglass mat = more durability.

Wind rating. Standard architectural shingles like Owens Corning Duration carry a 130 mph rating. Step up to Duration FLEX or Berkshire and you're at 150 mph. This matters if you're anywhere coastal, in tornado alley, or above ~1,500 ft elevation.

Impact rating (Class 3 vs Class 4). Class 4 shingles like Malarkey Vista AR (with their polymer-modified asphalt) or Atlas StormMaster survive a 2-inch steel ball drop without cracking. In hail-prone states — TX, CO, OK, KS, NE — many insurers offer 10–30% premium discounts for Class 4 roofs. That discount alone often pays the upgrade back in 5–7 years.

Algae resistance. Black streaks on a roof are algae (Gloeocapsa magma), not dirt. Critical in humid Southeast and Pacific Northwest climates; less relevant in dry Mountain West.

Granule technology. Premium products use 3M Smog-Reducing Granules (Malarkey), solar-reflective "cool roof" granules (GAF Timberline CS), or Atlas Scotchgard for color retention. These add measurable energy savings in hot climates and qualify for some utility rebates.

Appearance. Premium shingles cast deeper shadows, mimic natural materials, and hold color longer. This is purely an aesthetic and resale calculation.

When the Cheaper Shingle Is the Right Call

The roofing industry pushes premium because the margins are better. But a 3-tab or basic architectural is genuinely the right answer in the cases listed below:

• Rentals and flips. You won't be there in year 15 when proration kicks in.

• Outbuildings, sheds, detached garages. Nobody is appraising your shed.

• Low-pitch or hidden roof planes. That section over the addition that nobody sees from the street doesn't need high end shingles

• Mild climate, low wind exposure. Inland California, the Midwest interior, the desert Southwest — base-tier architectural shingles do fine.

• Selling within 5–7 years. You won't recoup the premium upgrade in resale price. Buyers see "new roof"; they don't see "premium new roof."

• Tight budget. This is the important one. If the choice is premium shingles with the cheapest installer versus standard architectural with a top-certified installer, take the certified installer every time. Roofing failures are 80–90% installation problems, not material problems.

When You Should Pay Up

The premium upgrade earns its keep in these situations:

• Hail-prone regions. Class 4 impact rating + insurance discount usually pays back the upgrade in under a decade.

• High-wind regions. Coastal Florida, the Outer Banks, Tornado Alley — the 150 mph rating on products.

• "Forever home." If you'll own the house 25+ years, you'll outlive the non-prorated window. A heavier shingle with deeper algae and UV protection actually delivers.

• Steep, highly visible roof planes. A roof you stare at from the driveway every day is worth the upgrade. Curb appeal compounds in resale.

• HOA aesthetic requirements. Some neighborhoods mandate dimensional shingles or specific designer profiles. Read your rules.

• You're after the top warranty tier. As covered HERE, GAF Golden Pledge, CertainTeed SureStart PLUS 5-Star, and Owens Corning Platinum require both a premium product and a certified contractor. The warranty is only as good as the combination.

A Decision Framework

Run through these five questions before you sign anything:

1. How long will you own the home? Under 7 years → standard architectural is almost always right. Over 15 years → premium starts to make sense. Forever home → buy the best you can afford.

2. What's your climate exposure? Wind, hail, hurricanes, sun, humidity — match the shingle to the threat. Don't pay for impact rating in coastal Maine; don't skip it in Denver.

3. What's the roof's visibility and pitch? Front-facing, steep, prominent — upgrade. Hidden back slope — don't.

4. Are you eligible for an insurance discount? Call your carrier before you choose. Ask specifically about Class 4 discounts. Some carriers offer 10–30%, some offer nothing.

5. What does your installer's certification require? If you've hired a GAF Master Elite or CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster, the warranty tier they can offer dictates the product you need to buy. The product and the installer have to match.

Common Mistakes I See

• Buying premium shingles with a bargain installer. Wastes the warranty unlock, wastes the upgrade money, and you still get a leaky roof.

• Choosing color before performance spec. Pick the product first, then the color from what's offered in that line.

• Skipping Class 4 in hail country to save $1,500. Insurance discount alone often returns the extra shingle cost.

• Mixing brand components. Putting GAF shingles over Owens Corning underlayment with a generic ridge cap voids the system warranty. Pick one brand's full system.

• Trusting "Lifetime" on the label. Re-read last week's warranty newsletter. The non-prorated window is what matters.

Reply with your zip code and roof age and I'll tell you which tier I'd pick!

Want to go even deeper? Check out this past newsletter on how to hire a roofer.

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June Maintenance Reminders

See the links for awesome vides of each!

1. Check, Change or Clean Your Furnace Filter

2. Test Smoke, Fire and Carbon Monoxide Detectors.

3. Run Garbage Disposal

4. Check Sump Pump Operation (Manually Test This)

5. Flush Out Hot Water Tanks

6. Clear Dryer Exhaust Ducts

7. Empty Septic Tank System

8. Clear Sticks From The Yard

Home Product Pick

By mid-June, outdoor dew points across most of the country climb above 60°F — the point where humid air starts dumping moisture inside cooler basements, crawlspaces, and slab-on-grade rooms. AC alone won't fix it. Central air conditioning pulls some humidity, but only when it's actively cooling, and basements rarely call for cool air.

Indoor relative humidity above 60% invites mold, dust mites, musty smells, and warped wood. A dedicated dehumidifier holds the space at 45–50% all summer.

If your unit sits below the nearest drain — common in finished basements and crawlspaces — buy a model with a built-in internal pump. Otherwise you'll be emptying a five-gallon bucket every twelve hours.

The first time I smelled that sweet, locker-room funk in my finished basement, I knew my $200 big-box dehumidifier had quietly given up. Dehumidifier Coils iced over. Bucket full. Humidity at 68%. I swapped it for an Alorair unit.

If you're losing the humidity fight, stop buying disposable units. These Alorair units are commercial quality and are backed by extensive research and development.

About the Author & Home Consulting Services

Adam Rich a licensed Professional Engineer (P.E.) and Real Estate Salesperson in the state of Ohio. Adam helps discerning homeowners like you take control of the complexity behind your home. Could you use un-biased advise about:

1. Home Improvements

2. Home maintenance

3. New construction decisions and options

4. Real estate investing or purchases

5. Real estate engineering matters

6. Home systems matters

7. Major renovations

8. Systems upgrades

9. Long-term maintenance

10. Your home’s true condition

• I deliver expert-level answers in clear, practical language.

• Choose one-time consultation or an ongoing relationship.

• I offer homeowners peace of mind through clear insights, practical planning, and calm expertise.

The content of this newsletter is for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. Some of the links included in this newsletter are affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase through these links. Always perform your own due diligence before making any financial decisions.